Emanating a radiant, youthful charm, Khon Kaen is the heart of commercial activity in the Isaan region. It is not uncommon to while away the time sipping at flavourful coffee listening to the smattering of foreigners avidly practicing Thai in the rear of an old wooden cafe. Meanwhile, nighttime is abuzz with scores of street-food markets selling mouthwatering delicacies from mango sticky rice to kà-nǒm (coconut pancakes).